Bucine
Did you know that taxi services stop at 7 pm in Italy? Me neither.
After a full day of travel that included two flights, a city bus I accidentally hopped and a train I nearly missed, I arrived in the small town of Bucine. It was 10 pm, pitch black and I just wanted a bed.
I called the only taxi in town, and Stefano said he’d make an exception to his working hours and help a girl out. He lied. I waited 45 minutes for him at the train station before making the decision to start walking.
So, with 100lbs worth of luggage, I made my way to the Villa so I could finally meet my friends, who had already indulged in some booze and were asking me where I was.
Walking the uphill trek on a highway, cobbles and dirt roads, I made it to the gates 45 minutes later. After some screaming to get their attention at the locked gates, I was greeted by drunken hugs and shouted slurs. Finally.
I allowed myself time to settle in and chat with friends old and new before hitting the sheets at 3 a.m.
Lesson learned: if you’re ever in Italy and plan to use taxis past 7 pm, pre-book it.
Florence – Duomo
PSA: don’t plan on climbing the Duomo if you’ve had too many drinks the night before.
The Grand Cathedral (the pride and spy of the cityscape) started construction in 1293. While its design included a large dome atop the green and white facade, no technology existed to built a dome of that size at the time. So, the structure was left open and unfinished until the city announced a design competition to solve the issue. Brunelleschi won with the unique idea of building two domes on top of one another with herringbone brickwork.
Nowadays, most of the Cathedral is closed to the public, but you can visit a portion of it filled with mosaics and frescoes. You can also climb into the Duomo if you wish.
There are 463 narrow, spiral and uneven steps to the top. They were built between the two domes to help the workers during construction, not intended for the general public. It’s not the easiest climb, and definitely not for the faint of heart, claustrophobic, or anyone with a fear of heights.
Making that trek was a challenge a few in our group opted out of since they were nursing hangovers from the previous night’s indulgence.
Getting to the top takes time, and you even get a break about halfway up to admire the frescoes on the inner cupola before making the final ascent. Seeing the city from above was well worth the struggle, though. I highly recommend it.
Maybe avoid any excessive drinking the day before 😅
Bucine
When life gives you grapes, you make wine. Or so the Italians tell me.
Making our way to a small cafe for much-needed caffeine, we noticed a beautiful winery offering free wine tastings. Needless to say, we called up the rest of our group and planned on visiting that afternoon.
Fattoria Casabianca has been a staple in the community for over 100 years. Their ingredients, cellar and final products are world-renowned; we had just so happened to stumble onto an Italian treasure.
They served each of their wines with a thorough explanation of the fermentation process and we got to learn how intricate wine-making truly is. While I am not much of a wine drinker, it didn’t stop me from indulging in the whole experience and soaking in the views.
By the end, most of us had purchased a bottle or two or three and we were stumbling around just a little.
If you ever find yourself in the countryside of Italy, you should really pop into a winery. The passion and drive Italians have for wine is unmatched.
…
There are phases of my life that I don’t quite believe are real.
Travel feels like a walking through a dream because I spent so long not believing I could. I built a business that would allow me to take time off when I wanted, but it wasn’t until recently that I could do it. For 10 years, I hustled and ground my way into this career, and I can FINALLY say that a portion of my career is getting paid to travel.
The cherry ontop is that I get to do it while being surrounded by he most amazing people, capturing their love and being an integral part of their story.
This particular wedding was a highlight reel of my career. I sobbed behind my camera all day long and then got drunk off of local wine from the vineyard down the street. I danced way too hard, I scream-sang, and I went to bed with a dizzy head and full heart.
And I got to do it all with a couple who’s become an integral part of my own story. Friendships bloom in the strangest of circumstances, but I know this one was meant to be.
Here’s to the friends we make along the way.
Who knew that meeting strangers in the middle of the woods for a photoshoot all those years ago would have blossomed into this friendship? I am forever honoured to be in your story, Emma.
Florence
I hopped on the train with two of the best girls for a day trip to Florence. Home to legendary artists, the city was a haven for me. They have the school of art, the leather market, the museums and an entire street dedicated to artists selling their work.
I spent too long strolling around and picking the perfect piece of art to bring home. I also scored a leather fanny pack, which I wear every day.
It was surreal to walk the same cobbled streets as Michelangelo. I remember learning about his dedication to his craft in high school and being in awe that anyone could be such a master at anything. Between his skills with marble, detailed sketches and paintings that defy the mind, he was a legend.
Seeing his work in person was a bucket list item I cherished. The museum is well worth a visit – in fact, a new section has opened with limited availability with never-before-seen work. Under the church where he hid from a death sentence for two months, the museum has uncovered countless drawings beneath plaster walls that had been built to house coal. Only 100 tickets a week are available to limit exposure to light. I would go back in a heartbeat to see it, but I’l have to accept seeing the David in person as consultation for now.
Between the good company that indulged my art heart, fantastic food at every turn and the timeless art everywhere, Florence was a dream come true.
Tuscany
6am wake-up calls are worth it, especially in Italy.
With a busy day touring the countryside ahead of us, we set out early to catch the train so we could meet our tour group in Florence.
Stop 1 – Monteriggioni. Here, we walked through the medieval town surrounded by a fortification wall and towers. Built in 1214, it certainly has its charm.
We enjoyed a decadent croissant and cappuccino as fuel to start the day off right. We snapped images while trying to soak it all in, with only a few minutes left to explore after our indulgence.
Stop 2 – Siena. It is a beautiful city famous for its UNESCO historic centre plaza. They still host the traditional Palio horse race that started in 1482. The race started as a civic celebration in 1232, but the formal course of lopping around the plaza wasn’t established until later. It’s held twice yearly, a rich tradition locals adore and tourists flock to see.
Here, we enjoyed walking through the streets, taking in the beautiful sights and enjoying some of the best pizza I’ve ever had. We also indulged in gelato and chocolates from local shops. FaceTiming my mom while I sat in the famous Square, we chatted briefly as I recounted my last few days.
Opting to meander over sharing a lunch with the big group, we took in the cobbled streets and stunning cathedral with good company. Siena is a city that is well worth the visit!
To be continued – this was a long day of Italian countryside touring.
..
Not everything goes as planned, but sometimes, you must make a party out of a bad situation.
This town took the cake for me. Between the calm streets, endless views and good people, this town has something special. It’s been dubbed the city of towers for its medieval architecture and preservation of over a dozen watchtowers.
We bought a loaf of bread to munch on, helped an American couple navigate a tight turn and meandered through the entire town. With views of endless olive groves, rolling hills and quaint homes, its unique charm took root in my heart. If I had to choose only one of these spots to visit, I would choose San Gimignano.
Bonus stop – the bus broke down on the side of the highway. While some were frustrated and tired, my friends and I played some music and sang along with the cheerier portion of the group. Being stuck on a highway in Italy might not be ideal, but it’s better than being stuck at a desk! We made a party out of it. After an hour, we got rescued by a backup bus, and all was well.
Not everyone will agree, but I believe that early wake-ups are worth the hassle when you travel.
Riomaggiore
I cried for ten minutes here. Actually, I sobbed.
I spent a solid 24 hours travelling from Florence. Got lost in Genoa taking the train with a dead phone, hopped in a cab and got to the airport. Sprang for a hotel room last minute when I realized the lounges were closed for the night and then got up at 3am for my flight. Took another train that led here.
Took a 30 minute uphill walk with my luggage, hauling it up endless flights of stairs and cobbles. 100lbs of clothing, gear and travel necessities.
I made it to this cozy Airbnb with a friendly host who walked me through everything I needed to know about this magical area in Italy.
After he left, I opened the blinds, sat on the bed and cried. The sky graced me with a beautiful sunset. After gathering my overwhelmed self, I went on the search of food. I FaceTimed my high school friends as we chatted about their lives at home and celebrated her pregnancy milestone.
My heart can still barely handle this new core memory. I can’t look at these without getting misty.
…
This region of Italy lives in my mind rent-free
I spent an entire day exploring the small town where I had set up shop for a week. I instantly fell in love.
From the colourful homes, the art everywhere I walked, the hidden gems around every corner, to the kind people, the slow living and delicious food, what more could a girl ask for? Looking for crystal clear waters, unreal sunsets, or historic sites: beautiful beaches, fresh fish and good wine? Or even stunning hiking trails, world-class kayaking, and views that take your breath away? When I tell you Cinque Terre has it all, I mean it.
There are so many things to do here, but what I loved most was getting lost.
Taking the wrong stairs, following a stray cat around a bend, catching a glimpse of the blue water through buildings. Spending my mornings intentionally, and reading a book with truly delicious coffee while I watched the sun reflect on the ocean. Chatting up the grocery store owner who insisted on giving me her best tomatoes from her garden and lemons from her backyard before I leave her shop. Snagging lemon granita to cool off before jumping into the water in the late afternoon sun.
I cannot quite explain the grip Riomaggiore has on me. I rarely want to return to a specific city I’ve checked off the list, but I would go back in a heartbeat.
Over a year later, and STILL obsess over my experiences there.
Beware of the boat cruises.
Now I don’t mean that they’re scams, or you shouldn’t take them. I just want you to be prepared. You should really eat something before you hop on.
With my bathing suit under my clothes, and cameras in hand, I made my way down the hill to meet my boat captain for the night.
We set sail. Local wine and some fresh focaccia bread were provided. The tunes started playing. And we made our way to each small fishing village, taking in the views while watching the sun go down.
The delicious local wine did not stop being poured.
Jumping into the cool, clear waves did nothing to curb the buzz in my head. The last rays of sunshine were painting the water with buttery light. It was utterly mesmerizing. I was pleasantly floating in the cool water, having a moment of gratitude for my life as the sun slipped behind the horizon.
The wine continued to flow.
By the time we rolled back into Riomaggiore, where I was staying for the week, I was passed being tipsy.
I made my way up the hill, meandering until I found a restaurant with an open table. That was feat in and of itself – I should have really made reservations.
I feasted on antipasto and bread. Fresh stone-fired margherita pizza – with you guessed it, more wine.
With the buzz fading, I stumbled onto a gelato shop and indulged before climbing the million stairs to my charming AirBnb.
The rest of my night was spent dancing on my patio to loud music that was playing at the bar on the first floor.
So this is your formal warning – eat something before the boat tour. You won’t realize how much you’ve had to drink since your glass is never empty.
…
Europeans do it differently.
It’s the cliche, but it’s true. They’ve got a much deeper sense of work/life balance. They don’t live to work, they work to live and spend their free time doing the things they love.
Hiking beautiful trails, grabbing drinks with friends, taking time for hobbies or having slow mornings with good coffee and a book. They take their joy so seriously.
Meanwhile, back in my hometown, we live in a government city where most people work 9-5 with an hour commute. The jobs get taken home on laptops, and logging off is next to impossible. When about 12 hours are spent surrounding jobs that you’re not passionate about, life gets bland. There’s no time or energy to cook, spend time with friends and family or even indulge in a hobby.
So the things I decided to take home with me from Europe were:
– Slow mornings with coffee and a book.
– Making a point to see friends and family
– Taking time for my hobbies.
– Moving my body consistently – walks do more than you think.
– Cooking food I enjoy and trying new things in the kitchen.
– Midday breaks.
– Saying no to the things I don’t want to do.
– Protecting my peace.
Overall, just a slower pace that makes time for the things I love most. That being said, it’s easier for me since I’m self employed and get to choose when I work, but it’s made an impact.
Sometimes, you have to listen to the locals.
Porto Venere
My Airbnb host had told me about this small town I needed to visit, which was just a ferry ride away. I knew I had to go when the grocery store owner told me it was a must-see.
Following their advice became my golden ticket to Porto Venere, a quaint town just a ferry ride away. Spent a half hour on the ferry soaking in the coastal views – wineries perched on cliffs and stunning rock formations, all under a sunny morning sky.
Arriving to a vibrant panorama of colourful facades, I immediately fell in love with the quiet town. First order of business? Treating myself to an affogato (vanilla gelato dunked in espresso) and a hearty breakfast by the water. After that, it was all about exploring the narrow streets, checking out cute shops, and climbing up to the old castle on the cliff.
With fresh caught seafood lunch and gelato as fuel, I found a secluded spot by the water tucked away in a cove and called up my mom to share my views and stories.
After the ferry ride home, Riomaggiore’s beach beckoned. listening to the rocks shift with every wave was the perfect soundtrack to my day. An Aperol spritz in hand like a proper tourist, I read my smut book and dipped into the clear ocean waves to cool off.
Basking in the glow of the setting sun, I relished my evening on the beach, my frizzy, salt-kissed hair a testament to a day well-lived. It all finished off by having a few drinks at the bar under my Airbnb, where I had the best pasta of my life and danced (very poorly) with the owner on the streets.
As the day faded and I made my way to bed, I couldn’t help but wish to linger a bit longer in the enchantment of Porto Venere – a slice of paradise that exceeded all expectations.
Vernazza + Manarola
When people warn you about Italy’s strict train ticket policies, LISTEN TO THEM.
I was SO ready to explore the other small towns that made up this picturesque region of Italy that I bought my train tickets online, anticipating spending a whole day there. I picked the ones I wanted to see most and set off early in the morning to avoid the crowds.
Arriving in Vernazza, I had a great breakfast with delicious coffee. Everything was going so well. I walked around, took out my camera and snapped a million images. I was even able to sneak past one of the hiking barriers without a trail pass by letting the teller know I just wanted an image of the town from a different angle. She was so kind and let me through for a few minutes. We chatted about what her life was like living there and her job managing tourists. She shared her favourite lunch spots in Marnarola before swapping contact info and I went on my way.
Manarola was as charming as promised but slightly more inundated with the lunch crowd. Thanks to my new friend, I found a quiet spot for freshly caught muscles and the best pizza I’ve ever had with a delicious limoncello spritz.
My mistake came after spending as long as possible walking around with my camera, taking in the views. My train ticket was for 4:00, but I was ready to return to my temporary home by 3:30. Since I knew you could miss the train and take the next without penalties, I thought it might also apply to earlier trains. After all, I’d paid for a ticket; where was the harm in catching it early?
I was wrong.
I got caught by a very cute ticketing officer. I did my best to flirt my way out of it and told him my story. If you’ve ever met me, though, you know that when I try to flirt, it’s not good. So obviously, I got charged with a 60euro fine and was sent on my way.
Don’t be me.
Just buy the ticket on your phone when you’re ready to leave. This is one of the instances where planning ahead doesn’t work out.
Recap
My last day in Italy was tough.
I had dreamed of visiting this place for so long and fell in love with the town and its people.
The grocery shop owner who gave me bread from her stash at home when she was sold out.
The boat captain who took me out for an afternoon on the water free of charge when he caught me snapping photos on the break wave.
The owner of the bar beneath my Airbnb who served me the best food and made me dance with him in the streets.
The ferry captain who told me exactly where to stand for the best views when he saw my camera.
The woman working at the trailhead who told me all about her favourite restaurants for fresh seafood away from tourists.
The cruise captain, who kept my wine glass full and took a video of me jumping off the boat, convinced I was insane for getting in the (mildly) cool water.
With endless views and food so good, I still think about it and the overall feeling of being welcome, the slow mornings and the crystal waters; Cinque Terre is one of the few places I would visit again. Packing up my bags for the following country felt so bittersweet. But Italy had one more treat for me.
On my last night, the sky graced me with a show. I gladly took it in from the coast and bid my farewell to a week in heaven.